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Posted

Yes, those look very nice! :)
You're firing them very high, but the break is perfectly spreaded.

I often add a ring of coloured stars to the shell, it gives a great effect!
Or try adding just a ring of other stars, with white tails or something. I'm sure you'll like it.

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Posted

How did you set up such a huge ring shell? It came out very well. Do you have any pics of the shells before firing? Again good job.

Sidenote: your site is looking great.

Posted

I Think I have some pictures

Well if you look at the pictures (they apply for all my shells, let them be small or large) the stars are aranged by the walls (pumped stars work really good as they stack nicely) and then break charge (very fast granulated BP or BP covered rice hulls) is put in the centre of the shell (on smaller shells I use a booster like whistle or flash, or you could just use H3). The shell is closed and spiked with hemp twine (2mm type), and pasted with a long strip of paper wich has been pasted heavily with WHEAT PASTE (this is important, wheat paste, when dry, is brittle and not flexible, this provides a better break)

This is basicaly it, the key is wheat paste (in my opinion) and a good spiking job. The break does not play a very important role, you could break the shell with poor BP if the spiking is good.

Deadman, I have attached a piccy before they were fired (although the pic is not from the construction, they are finished with fuse and everything). The ring shell was the little one (50mm)

Posted

WOW again, that's a very nice shell you've fired man ! Awsome !

Only, how do you attach that tube pressed with meal or something which works as a fuse for the shell ? I mean, it got to be strong.

And how much did your 75mm shell weighed and how much lift did you use to fire it that high :) !

Nice job PGF, I think many people can learn alot from you :P including me ! Although mortars/shell's are not my faforites, I like Rockets with payloads alot :D .

Cya, Yellowcard

Posted

Yellowcard, I secure the fuse with hot melt glue (strong and water-proof), the additional strenght comes from the pasting when I fold the excess paper around the fuse creating a crown.

The 75mm shells weighed around 180-190g, so I used around 16g of BP to lift them.

I can post 2 articles on making proffesional single and multi break canister shells if anyone wants them. It has everything you could imagine about canister shells. Let me know if anyone wants it.

Posted

Although my canister shells DO never fail, it would be a very interesting document I suppose. :) I've also once made a double break canister, that one was cool. :P
And about the wheat paste, could you tell us more about that? I just spike my shells, and strengthen them with glued paper.

Posted

I'like the movie a lot :) .
Is the last break supossed to do that?, i like it.
But the one before is also sick,.... heck what the hell i'm talking about, i like them ALL :D .
You're quite a inspiration to me. :P .



Lttrz

Posted

@Mr. Stinjtje, the wheat paste is a special glue made from flour and water (really easy to make, tutorial is on my site). The main difference between wheat paste and say white glue is that the wheat paste shrinks when it dries, and when dry it is also brittle (cracks easily), this is better for a shell than white glue (white glue is flexible when dry, that's not good). The only bad thing about wheat paste is that is spoils quite quickly, it's usable for max 2 days if not stored properly (a little bit more if you keep it cold), so it's best to make it as you need it.

@pepcore, the last break wasn't exactly supposed to do that, was nice though. :)

Here are the files, enjoy.

Fulcanelli.zip

Posted

The file doesn't work here :P , but I want it very much cause your shells are awesome :) .
I'd never thought that an Pyro-men could make such good thinks.

So can you please upload the file again?

Jurrrrr

Posted

Okay, nice thing about the wheat paste. The glue I use now gets very hard, I also use it for rolling tubes. But I'll try the wheat paste in some weeks.

And the PDF's are very good! Not too high quality, but the quality of the information matters, not the quality of the copy. :)

Posted

Nah, i used regular BBQ charcoal that you get on every gas station (not the briquettes). The formula was a white tigertail one.

KNO3: 63.6%
S: 24.4%
C: 12.0%
+5% Dextrin

The last shell was regular chrysanthemum 6 with regular BBQ charcoal, only miled for a longer time so the charcoal was really fine.

For the better pearl star (first shell) i sed Black alder charcoal as i wanted no vissible charcoal spark to be seen so it would not overpower the birghtness of the aluminium.

Posted

Hmm, I'll try that white tigertail composition too I think. The KNO3 White you posted before I had already used some times, it's a very nice bright star!

My favorite composition is D1 Glitter,
53.00% Potassium Nitrate
18.00% Sulfur
11.00% Charcoal (airfloat)
07.00% Aluminium (-325 mesh, spherical)
07.00% Sodium Bicarbonate
04.00% Dextrin

All exept the Aluminium (I use 250 mesh Atomized) is milled for about half an hour, then it's mixed.
I pump them in stars using NC-Laquer, because it dries quite fast.
It's a good idea to prime them with Meal Powder, but it's not necessary.

The stars give a very long tail of long delayed gold/silver glitters, beautyfull if you have a shell filled with them.

gr,
Stijn

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I like them a lot. :P , not completely symmetrical, but very nice indeed...
Nice work man :D .


Lttrz

Posted

Ok, i didn't mean it in a bad way, i said they were beautiful, and a long way to go for me to get something like you :P .

And i didn't know that it was hard to get a perfectly symmetrical break from cannister like shells, i just remembered seeing one of your movies a while ago, and was impressed about how symmetrical they were. (now i know, they were probably round shells)



Lttrz

Posted

Those are some very nice shells you've got there PGF!
But thats to be expected when you've seen the topic's beginning. :P
KUTGW

Pjee

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