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Pretty green flames

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Posts posted by Pretty green flames

  1. Nice shell, you got a very good break for a shell of that size, good job.

    One question, how did you close the shell (the top end, picture 2), it's a very nice closure and i'd like to learn how to make it as i have never found a quick way to close small shells.

  2. I know you didn't mean it in a bad way :P. I know they are not completely symetrical but i am quite happy with the result, sometimes i get a bit lucky and the break comes out perfect (sometimes).

    Anyway thanks for the comments.

  3. Blaf, it looks VERY nice. The only thing i'd like to mention is that your speed is much to high. For a star roller you should be looking at max. 40 revolutions per minute. At 120 revolution per minute the stars will not tumble very well. Somehow slow it down and you should get better results.

  4. Question goes to Mr.stijntje. I know you bind your stars with NC lacquer as you mentioned it in the aerial shells thread, i'd like to know how hard are they, do they crumble easily? Also if anyone else uses NC lacquer to bind their stars i'd like to hear some experiences.

    Thanks.

  5. Nah, i used regular BBQ charcoal that you get on every gas station (not the briquettes). The formula was a white tigertail one.

    KNO3: 63.6%
    S: 24.4%
    C: 12.0%
    +5% Dextrin

    The last shell was regular chrysanthemum 6 with regular BBQ charcoal, only miled for a longer time so the charcoal was really fine.

    For the better pearl star (first shell) i sed Black alder charcoal as i wanted no vissible charcoal spark to be seen so it would not overpower the birghtness of the aluminium.

  6. @Mr. Stinjtje, the wheat paste is a special glue made from flour and water (really easy to make, tutorial is on my site). The main difference between wheat paste and say white glue is that the wheat paste shrinks when it dries, and when dry it is also brittle (cracks easily), this is better for a shell than white glue (white glue is flexible when dry, that's not good). The only bad thing about wheat paste is that is spoils quite quickly, it's usable for max 2 days if not stored properly (a little bit more if you keep it cold), so it's best to make it as you need it.

    @pepcore, the last break wasn't exactly supposed to do that, was nice though. :)

    Here are the files, enjoy.

    Fulcanelli.zip

  7. Yellowcard, I secure the fuse with hot melt glue (strong and water-proof), the additional strenght comes from the pasting when I fold the excess paper around the fuse creating a crown.

    The 75mm shells weighed around 180-190g, so I used around 16g of BP to lift them.

    I can post 2 articles on making proffesional single and multi break canister shells if anyone wants them. It has everything you could imagine about canister shells. Let me know if anyone wants it.

  8. I Think I have some pictures

    Well if you look at the pictures (they apply for all my shells, let them be small or large) the stars are aranged by the walls (pumped stars work really good as they stack nicely) and then break charge (very fast granulated BP or BP covered rice hulls) is put in the centre of the shell (on smaller shells I use a booster like whistle or flash, or you could just use H3). The shell is closed and spiked with hemp twine (2mm type), and pasted with a long strip of paper wich has been pasted heavily with WHEAT PASTE (this is important, wheat paste, when dry, is brittle and not flexible, this provides a better break)

    This is basicaly it, the key is wheat paste (in my opinion) and a good spiking job. The break does not play a very important role, you could break the shell with poor BP if the spiking is good.

    Deadman, I have attached a piccy before they were fired (although the pic is not from the construction, they are finished with fuse and everything). The ring shell was the little one (50mm)

  9. Hey everyone, after a short break from pyro I'm back with some shells :)

    Here's a pic, I'm going to fire them tommorow and post vids here.
    The three small ones are 50mm and the two big ones are 75mm. The 75mm are comet shells with 33 chrysanthemum comets in them and BP break. The small ones have a mix of stars in them. 1 has better pearl streamers in it and the other two have a mix of white and chrysanthemum stars. All small ones have BP as break and a tea spoon of grnaulated whislte as booster and they are only spiked vertically.

    Enjoy

  10. Ok, let's start.

    All shells were 2.5", canister type. They weighed 190g-200g and were lifted 15g-18g of granulated BP (10 mesh). For the break I used 20mesh granulated BP this was placed in the centre of the shell (A tubes is used to centre the break and the stars are placed around the tube then the tube is slowly pulled out leaving a core of burst. To prevent the core of burst to get lost all over the shell between the spaces of the stars I put some green mix in by the stars so all the spaces are filled, this is done when the tube with the burst is in the shell).

    Oh yes, for the fuse I used a spollette (paper tube rammed with BP, I used a 3 second delay, about 2.5cm of powder). I never crossmatch my spollettes as they take fire really easily and they have a nice jet of flames coming from them when they burn so you can film them easiliy.

    For the stars I used a white star formula (made with hardwood charcoal, beech to be exact).

    KNO3 - 72%
    S - 29%
    C - 3%
    Dex - 5%

    The shells were then spiked with the aid of a spiking horse. When spiked I pasted the shell with a thin layer of white glue so the strings were glued to the shell. After this is dried I pasted the shell by wraping it in a paper strip that has been pasted with wheat paste.

    I hope this helped.

  11. Nice Shells PGF!
    I Like the ring shell. :)

    I hope I will be able to make some better shells too very soon!
    (My shells never get high, but the break is getting better. :P )



    Good luck with your future shells, I'm sure they will get better :P


    Thanks for the nice words everyone.
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