Blaf

Ah, so, there you are all again...in afact I'm glad to throw a rabbit among hungry snakes sometimes. First, I know that lead compounds are all poisonous...I know it for long time and if you look at my details, you should see I'm reloader of handgun ammunition as well, which implies dealing with pure lead and its fumes. So lets presume I'm aware of implications, OK? I would just like to know if someone actually ever tried to make those little crackling beauties and what was the final outcome. The mixture of lead tetraoxide+cuprum dioxide+nitrocelulose lacquer has been well described all over the Net but what I need here is something from real life... Second, Exhile my friend - this is for you. I don't know much of this and I could just rely on what I read elsewhere...there was a guy making MagnAlium, he powdered it and tossed a small quantity over an open flame - he says that crackling sound that turned him back in time of his childhood, was so loud and beautiful. There I learned that crackling must be the feature of MgAl, not of the rest of mixture. I have to add this too - you probably wonder where on this Earth I found Pb3O4? This compound is not easily available nowadays. But I'm blessed living on Adriatic sea where traditions die very hard. Fisherman here used to paint their boats with lead minium which is once sold in powdered form. They would mix it with with bull blood and thus making a thick paint which kept away sea shells and algae from their boats. Today you just get the final product, ready made for usage. There we come to a small paint shop and a forgotten bag, half-full of pure Pb3O4 powder...so if any of you ever come here, there must be some 30 kg of it waiting to be distributed. Wait - I just have an idea for a new topic... Tnx for comments U2! Blaf

Hello guys I have experimented with KNO3+sugar+Sulphur mixture and I found it quite useful as a rocket propellant. It gives strong and quick thrust, sometimes too strong. As a chasis I used several tubes of differerent materials and diameters. The ones I like the most are those plastic tubes you can find in POS terminals after the ribbon is spent. OK, I admit, from this mixture you can't get any beautiful sparkling trail to go "ahhhh" over it, but it pushes this small tube really sky-high. I never tried so far but I believe that inner core and the grain should be shortened in general to supress thrust so that you can actually see the effect charge at lower attitude. Really, when this version of rocket motor lifts the charge to some 70 meters high, you can see nothing or very little. Any experiences in this field guys? Blaf

Hello everybody Here I go again....anybody of you ever tried to make dragon eggs? Or in other words - crackling micro stars? They're made of mixture (today ecologically unacceptable) of Copper oxide, certain lead compound and MagnAlium. I have no any MgAl so far so I tried to replace it with Al...and there was no crackling. As a matter of fact, I wasn't expecting anything at all. MgAl is the one producing that distinctive crackling sound, isn't it? Your comments from real experience are welcome... Blaf

Hello Exhile Yes, I know about Mr. Wouters site - it's one of the best I came accross ever. Besides, he speaks and writes better English than some native English guys. Thanks for being concerned about my humble project... Blaf

Grasmaaier my friend I'm kind of bussy lately so nothing was launched yet. I do finish much more important things around my house and my pyro-side has been supressed for a while. As for the shitty city you live in...I wouldn't be so harsh to it. After all, it's in the Netherlands, isn't it? Stay away of troubles! Blaf

I deeply doubt that Nugstar's sort of fuse works at all. It maybe does but not as a real fuse. C'mon, don't tell me that simple cotton string soaked in a melted Sulphur burns through tightly squeezed paper tube or something that requires snug fit...OK, it burns on open space (releasing that choking gas) but to make it burn through tight holes it takes providing it with oxidizer first and a bit of fuel. Only Sulphur and cotton will not suffice for serious use, right? Blaf

That's a good one... I'll take it into consideration for sure... Blaf

Nothing new my friend Grasmaaier...will let you know as soon as I fire it. Regards from Blaf

Hello Exhile Thanks for dropping by. Yes, you're right in general that everything here should be taken with propper care and understanding. Especially when chemicals are involved. My little "sensitivity" experiment goes back to the end of 70s when safety wasn't such a big pain in the ass (It was invented much later). And I'm agree with you that certain safety margin has to be respected here. Having mentioned safety - you see, I haven't tried my tourbillion yet because I'm still looking for safe place to fire it. That much of safety. Just review again my "sensitivity" test with KPermanganate+S+Al mixture - should it be considered as sensitive to friction? If you ask me, no, not exactly. Talking about sensitivity - I remember (when I was a kid) a certain type of gadget especially made make bangs, based on friction principle. We called it "tondin" which probably has some meaning in Italian...anyhow, it consisted of a metal handle with a heavy thick walled cylinder welded on one end. All together, it was about 50-60cm long. The cylinder was drilled 3/4 of its lenght through center and appropriately sized piston was then made to tightly fill the hole. Basically, you have a thick walled metal chamber with a piston on a long metal handle. Then, you take the piston out and place a thin layer of say....sulphur on the bottom of chamber, place the piston back and simply blow the piston side protruding from the chamber against firm surface. If you apply enough pressure, it goes bang. Safety? I have to admit, the only safety feature on this was metal chain linking a piston and a blowing head to keep them together after explosion....sorry - deflagration. I'm talking here about sensitivity which is really relative term...and I'm deeply convinced that everything on this Earth can be brought to its sensitivity edge if enough force is used. We can term it as "Blaf's Universal Sensitivity Principle"...it has something to do with thermodynamics, I'm sure. Exhile my friend, don't worry - now, with all that experience and time behind me, I'm much wiser. Blaf

Tnx Gamekeeper!!! Regards from Blaf

This goeas to all of you taking part in the game. Especially you Gamekkeper...as I saw your Dutch site covering this issue. Unfortunately, I couldn't get essential details as to how to distract AN from KAS fertilizer. I see it takes dissolving it in boiling water and there, my understanding stops. Could you be so kind and pass me all relevant details? Of course, I would appreciate any help in this matter. Blaf

Grasmaaier, you're my Man. Your enxiousity to see what happens is unbeliveable. Anyhow, I do appreciate your eagerness...reminds me on myself long time ago. Will let you know if anything goes wrong or right either. Regards Blaf

Wish I had one. To be honest, we have pine forests around but pines are very flammable and I wouldn't like to be chased by fire brigade. An open school basketball playground would be the right place but it's always crowded by kids... Thanks for your concern anyhow! Blaf

Will do asap...you should know that I live in a city of 250000 inhabitants and sometimes you simply can't find the right place to try "things". Hope that spin speed won't blow off the wings... Blaf

Hello Gamekeeper Tnx for comment. As you mentioned "sensitivity" of the KMnO4 flash, I recalled a scene from some 35 years back in history. It includes my best friend and humble me...we were a duo well known in the neighbourhood by hand made crackers and similar stuff. Once, we made a few larger (it's relative term, though) crackers with mentioned flash and one of them did not go bang, eventhough the fuse burned completely. We took it and placed it on a piece of flat rock, topped it with another flat piece and then I lifted the biggest boulder I could and smashed it against upper rock. Well, there we come to sensitivity... it went off with a loud bang! I couldn't believe my ears but it happened right then, right there. But let's be honest - everything has a certain sensitivity treshold...even if you apply enough pressure (in a milisecond time) to sawdust it will go bang when it reaches its inflammation temperature. This is just a short flick from my past...maybe someone has quite different experiences with this mixture but as far as I'm concerned it's stabile and not so sensitive. Tnx again! Blaf

Am I the only one here starting new topics? If so, then be it... Any bad experiences with KMnO4 + S + Al flash? They say this compound is unstable and blah, blah.... From my personal experience, the flash works OK, it's messy if you spread it around, though. Especially on rainy day, heh. But generally, it works good in tightly confined casings. I have quantity of it stored for years now in a sealed glass vessel and it works as good as the first day I mixed it. The ratio of ingredients I use would not be by weight but by volume...it goes like this: KMnO4 - 3 parts Sulphur - 1 part Aluminum bronze - 1 part Unfortunately, I have no hold of German Black type to try it with...it would probably work even better. Any clever observations would be highly appreciated by humble me... Blaf

Hello Exhile Long time no hear form you. OK, let's get back to the issue. I've got to admit that your comment wasn't much of revelation because it concerns well known Black Match making procedure. Anyhow, tnx for being there with advice. Here is the way I do my fuse. First, you should get a tube of any universal neoprene glue. Then, you take two spoons of your meal BP and toss it into ceramic jar...or a small glass. Pour one spoon of glue over it. It should be mixed thoroughly with a spoon until entire mixture sticks into one round shaped ball which can be kneaded without sticking to your skin. It takes some time.... Then, a piece of flat glass comes handy, place the homogenous mass on it and roll a bottle of beer over it, forth and back until you get an ovally shaped flat "pancake" 1,5 - 2,0 mm thick. This is the first phase. Now, put a layer of the same neoprene glue on one side of the cake and spread a piece of gauze over so that it sticks well to it. This could sound messy but it can be done with a spatula of some kind. When it dries enough treat the other side of the cake the same way. It should be noted that gauze has to be sretched so that fibres come glued parallely along (or accross) the cake. As a matter of fact, fibres on both sides should be parallel...it increases the strenght of the final product. For more strenght, additional layer of glue can be applied on both sides. Once the cake dries completely, you can slice tiny pieces of fuse (cut between fibres) with a sharp knife. The burning rate could be slowed by adding more glue for slower or more BP for qucker fuse. The fuse itself can be bent all over to certain extent...of course, with caution. But for smaller devices and specific applications proves to be ideal - crackers for example. And that's it. Hope this could find some use with general pyro-public. And of course, suggestions are welcome... Blaf

As far as I can see I'm the only one to open new topics here...so be it. Anybody has an efficient recipe on how to make a good and reliable fuse? I have my own recipe that works OK but I would like to get as close to original as I can. And please do not suggest me buying a roll of Visco because it's not possible where I come from. Blaf

Does anyone have any useful tips on end plugs for tourbillions beside clay, bentonite, kitty liter etc. Those materials are a bit heavier and probably affect aerodynamics... I know, someone will mention a wood plug....do not, please. Blaf

POS, you're overreacting, don't you? I wouldn't like to blow a NATO base...but if any base ever blows off I'd like you to be my witness of defense, OK? Exhile, your advice sounds reasonable. I wondered if I dumped my powder directly into linseed oil, when the powder would dry up...if ever. This slightly oiled pan and weted powder should work OK. I'm gonna try it one of these days and let you know the results. Meanwhile, I made a little bigger fountain last weekend. One of my nieces had her birthday party and I made it of a convolute cardborad tube perfect for the purpose - an ATM paper roll inner tube. They usually discard it but I asked serviceman to keep them for me. And so, a nice brownish tubes are beeing steadily collected. A simple KnO3, S, C mixture + iron dust and some coarse Al (made of ground Al foil) produced very nicely sparkling volcano, going more than 3 meters up in the air through relatively wide nozzle. The effect lasted not longer than 10 seconds but entire bunch of kids was so excited about it that I had to promise some more in the future. This much from me for now, tnx POS and Exhile! Blaf

OK guys, tnx for your advices. I heard of linseed oil which should be thinned somewhat and warmed up....does anyone know what oil:thinner ratio I should use? And what to do after I dump my powder into solution? Should I stir it or just leave it...and for how long. On top of that, when the powder is soaked entirely, should I filter it or what. C'mon guys, I need complete procedure.... Blaf

Tnx Pk for quick reply to my quest. My practical knowledge in this is also limited and I thought it would be best to start with small quantities. Theoretically, Boric acid should help supress reaction and if I ever do large scale stuff, I'll add it. Meanwhile, my point of interest is to find an easy way to treat metal dust (Mg, Fe, Zn...) with a protection layer. If you happen top know any simple procedure do not hesitate to let me know, OK? Tnx again Blaf

Recently I assembled a small fountain wich was fueled by mixture of KNO3, S, Coal dust and iron dust of mixed mesh. The thing worked well, lasted quite long and sparking effect was satisfatctory by my moderate experience. I haven't treated my iron dust with any protection and at my pleasant surprise, nothing bad happened. They (you know them, of course) recommend it, though. If someone reading this could help by providing me a simple, efficient and practically doable way to protect metal particles from reacting with nitrates, I'll be more than glad to listen... Blaf